The area
A temple hill that became Tokyo’s park
The Tokugawa temple
Kan’ei-ji was founded in 1625 on the hill northeast of Edo Castle, the direction from which bad luck was thought to come, to protect the shoguns.
The battle of Ueno
In 1868 samurai loyal to the last shogun made a stand here against the new imperial army, and most of the temple burned.
Japan’s first park and museums
The hill became one of Japan’s first public parks in 1873. The national museum moved here in 1882, and Le Corbusier’s National Museum of Western Art followed in 1959.
Yanaka, the Tokyo that survived
Yanaka escaped the worst of the 1923 earthquake fires and the wartime bombing, so it still has dozens of temples, wooden houses and old shops.